Live like a local in the Med

24 May 2009 - The Observer - Annabelle Thorpe

Alghero, Sardinia

Although located in Sardinia, Alghero's cobbled streets and medieval centre are strongly reminiscent of old towns on the Italian mainland such as Sanremo and Sorrento. In the evening, avoid the crowds and head up onto the fortified walls of the town's bastion: it's a great place to watch the sun set over the dramatic sea cliffs of Capo Caccia. Afterwards, dip into the town's lively restaurant scene: Mabrouk (Via Santa Barbara), is a fantastic fish restaurant run by a brother and sister. The brother fishes during the night and the sister prepares the catch for the next day's supper. There's no menu; it all depends what the sea gives up each night. Or try Al Tuguri, which specialises in traditional Catalan dishes - worth visiting for the crème brulée alone.

For a day trip, one of the most spectacular sights around Alghero is the Grotta di Nettuno - stunning sea caves beneath a sheer cliff face. Boats go from Alghero's port and the return trip takes around two-and-a-half hours.

Stay: peacefully located between Piazza Ginnasio and the bastion of Cristoforo Columbo, the Apartment Storico oozes character and history. The apartment is on two floors with two double bedrooms, an elegant dining room and fully fitted kitchen. From £674 a week through Sardinian Places (0845 330 2050; sardinianplaces.co.uk).